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Vikingetid og middelalder

Textilarkeolog.dk er tænkt som en ressourceside for alle, der arbejder med tekstiler og dragter i vikingetid og middelalder. På siden kan du hente tips og råd samt artikler m.m. om tekstiler og dragter.

Medieval Broadcloth

nyhederPosted by kathrine@textilarkeolog.dk Thu, December 05, 2013 21:09:39

The Medieval Broadcloth -
Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption

I 2006 afholdte Danmarks Grundforskningsfonds Center for Tekstilforskning i forbindelse med Dansk Historikermøde en konference om middelalderligt klæde. Foredragene er nu publiserede.

The book is published by: The Danish National Research Foundation's Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen. Ancient Textiles Series 6, ed. Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen and Marie-Louise B. Nosch.

Contents
Introduction by Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen and Marie-Louise B. Nosch

1. Three Centuries of Luxury Textile Consumption in the Low Countries
and England, 1330–1570: Trends and Comparisons of Real Values
of Woollen Broadcloths (Then and Now) by John Munro.
2. Some Aspects of Medieval Cloth Trade in the Baltic Sea Area by Carsten Jahnke.
3. A Finnish Archaeological Perspective on Medieval Broadcloth by Heini Kirjavainen.
4. Searching for Broadcloth in Tartu (14th–15th century) by Riina Rammo.
5. The Influence of Hanseatic Trade on Textile Production in Medieval Poland by Jerzy Maik.
6. Mengiað klæthe and tweskifte klædher. Marbled, Patterned and Parti-coloured Clothing in Medieval Scandinavia by Camilla Luise Dahl.
7. Archaeological Evidence of Multi-coloured Cloth and Clothing by Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen.
8. Reconstructing 15th century Laken by Anton Reurink and Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen.

LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS

John H. Munro is Professor Emeritus of Economics, University of Toronto. John Munro received his M.A. and Ph.D. in History from Yale University and was nominated full professor in 1973 at the University of Toronto, Department of Economics. His principal research interests concern later medieval and early modern England and the Low Countries, with a focus on the history of the textile industries, and also on monetary, financial, and labour history. His major recent publications are: Textiles of the Low Countries in European Economic History, Studies in Social and Economic History, Vol. 19 (1990); Bullion Flows and Monetary Policies in England and the Low Countries, 1350–1500 (1992); Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries
(1994). He served as the Medieval Area editor for the The Oxford Encyclopedia of Economic History. He is elected as a lifetime Foreign Member of the Royal Flemish Academy of Belgium for Science and the Arts.

Carsten Jahnke is a historian and associate professor at the Saxo Institute, University of Copenhagen. He was trained in Kiel, Germany and is a specialist in medieval economical and social history. His research includes the history of the Hanseatic League, the Estonian trade up to the 16th century and the political, economical and social history of Denmark in the Middle Ages. He is the author of the article on The Baltic Trade, in the Handbook of Hanseatic History, ed. Don Harrald, a monograph about the Hanseatic herring trade and the trade between Tallinn/Reval and Amsterdam in the 15th and 16th century. In the present volume he presents evidence on the cloth trade in the Baltic.

Heini Kirjavainen is a doctoral student in the Department of Archaeology, University of Turku in Finland. She is specialized in medieval textile research and archaeological fibre identification. Her research concentrates mainly on urban textile finds and their manufacturing sphere in the medieval town of Turku in south western Finland. In this present volume she discusses medieval broadcloth imports to Finland.

Riina Rammo is an archaeologist, and currently Ph.D. student at the University of Tartu, Finland, and also works there at the Institute of History and Archaeology, University of Tartu. She is specialized in archaeological textiles, especially findings from the Middle Ages. Her research also includes studies in history of prehistoric and medieval costume in Estonia. In the present volume she has gathered evidence on broadcloth among medieval archaeological findings from Tartu, a medieval Hanseatic town in Livonia.

Jerzy Maik is Associate Professor at the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology of the Polish Academy of Sciences. He received his Ph.D. degree and Habilitation at the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology, Polish Academy of Sciences. His main focus is the history of textiles in Poland, particularly in the Roman period and the Middle Ages; his research also includes medieval cities and castles and their inhabitants. Maik is the editor of the scientific journal Fasciculi Archaeologiae Historica, Lódz. He is a member of the organization committee of the North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles, and organizer of the 8th North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles, 2002 in Lódz, and editor of the volume Priceless invention of humanity – Textiles. Report from the 8th North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles”, 8–10 May 2002 in Lódz, Poland, “Acta Archaeologica Lodziensia”, No 50/1, Lódz 2004.

Camilla Luise Dahl holds a Masters in history from the Saxo Institute, University of Copenhagen. Her main research areas are clothing references in medieval Scandinavian documents and terminology and typology of dress. She is the editor of Dragtjournalen, a journal dedicated to the study of costume published by a consortium of Danish museums; she has published numerous articles on history and terminology of dress from medieval through early modern times.

Anton Reurink is trained as a Master technician of fine mechanics and has worked for the University of Utrecht in Holland. He has conducted several experiments regarding ancient textile technology, and organises workshops about medieval textile production. He has also created exhibitions in several museums. He is currently conducting a large collaborative study of Broadcloth from the 15th century as made in the city of Leiden, Holland, and employs both historical sources and experimental archaeology.

Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen has an M.A. from the Department of Medieval Archaeology at the University of Aarhus. She is attached to the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen. Her research centres on textiles and clothing from the Viking Age and the Medieval period, with a special emphasis on combining theoretical analysis with practical knowledge garnered from handicraft processes.

Marie-Louise B. Nosch is the director of the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, located at the Saxo Institute, University of Copenhagen. She is trained in history, archaeology and philology, and holds her Ph.D. degree from the University of Salzburg. She was co-organiser of the international seminar on broadcloth, and is the editor of the Ancient Textiles Series.

Favrskov Middelalder

nyhederPosted by kathrine@textilarkeolog.dk Thu, December 05, 2013 20:47:41
10. maj 2007
Så er Favrskov Middelaldermarked sat i gang. Favrskov Kommune har bevilliget en slat penge, så også Favrskov kan komme med på middelalderbølgen. Arrangementet skal løbe af stablen d. 15. september 2007 og arrangørerne er Lise Kirketerp Rubak, Birgitte Vestergård og jeg selv. Arrangementet afholdes i Sløjfen i Hadsten og vi forventer, at både etablerede middelaldergrupper og nye lokale middelalderfolk vil deltage, foruden en række lokale foreninger.


10. februar 2008
Favrskov Middelalderforening er klar med et nyt arrangement. I år bliver det en allehelgensaften på Ulstrup Slot. Vi er i gang med planlægningen og mere information kan fås på www.favrskovmiddelalder.dk.

August 2010
Så er planlægningen af Middelaldertaffel ved Favrskov Middelalderatter i fuld gang. Det er tredie år i træk, at Favrskov Middelalder arrangere et middelaldertaffel i forbindelse med Allehelgen på Ulstrup Slot. Maden bliver fantastisk, kulisserne bliver smukke med vægtæpper, flag og bordpynt og servicet bliver 100% autentisk med trætallerkner, stobe og spiseskeer. Underholdningen bliver også helt i top med musik, korsang af foreningens eget kor og historiefortælling samt dans. Se mere om arrangementet og køb billetter på Favrskov Middelalder.



Tekstiltur til Bergen

nyhederPosted by kathrine@textilarkeolog.dk Thu, December 05, 2013 20:35:46

18. marts 2007
Nylig hjemkommet fra en spændende tekstiltur til Norge. Først havde jeg 3 dage på Bryggens Museum i Bergen, hvor jeg havde fået lov til at "rode" skufferne med arkæologiske tekstiler igennem. Jeg nåde at gennemgå næsten hele samlingen og danne mig et overblik over potentialet og mulighederne i tekstilmaterialet. Samlingen består ikke kun at materialet fra udgravningen omkring Bryggen, der stod på fra 1955-1967, men der var også andre senere udgravninger dels i Bergen by, dels i omkringliggende kirker. Samlingen er helt utrolig flot. Foruden den store mængde tekstiler fra havnemiljøet på Bryggen var der også fine ting som brikvævede guldbrokadebånd, hørrester fra gravlægninger og en del store næsten hele dragtstykker. Her er der bestemt materiale at tage med i et kommende forskningsarbejde.



Billedet viser et af tekstilerne fra samlingen i Bergen. Dette er et såkaldt transporttekstil, der har været anvendt som særk eller emballage.
Den anden del af turen var et besøg i Oslo, hvor jeg overværede Marianne Vedelers forsvare sin ph.d. afhandling: Klær og formspråk i Norsk Middelalder. Både afhandlingen og selve forsvaret var meget spændende og Marianne har foruden at bidrage med en ny inddeling af snit og snitmønster i middelalderdragten også bidraget med bearbejdelse af nye fund. Således er dragter fra begravelser i Guddal og Uvdal kirker behandlet og publiceret nu.



Stort rekonstruktionsprojekt for Kulturhistorisk Museum Randers

nyhederPosted by kathrine@textilarkeolog.dk Thu, December 05, 2013 20:31:50

1. november 2006 begyndte jeg på arbejdet med at sy tre middelalderdragter til den nye middelalderudstilling på Randers Museum. Udstillingen åbnede i marts 2007.

Rammerne for dragterne er en bedre stillet skomagerfamilie fra 1300-tallet. Selvom skomagerfamilien er fiktiv, så tildannes både giner, stoffer og dragtsnit udfra repræsentativ kildemateriale. Således er tre personer med nogenlunde den rigtige højde og kropsbygning i forhold til middelalderens mennesker blevet udvalgt, og en række danske kalkmalerier er blevet studeret for at ramme det rigtige udtryk i dragterne. Normalt er stof og pels meget dårligt bevaret i jorden, og i Randers er kun få fragmenter af datidens dragter bevaret. Derfor har det været nødvendigt at bruge andre arkæologiske fund som forlæg for dragternes snitmønstre, syteknikker, stoffer og farver.

Stoffet til rekonstruktionerne er det fabriksfremstillede uldstof, der kan læses mere om på denne side. Dette stof er således lavet på baggrund af et arkæologisk fund fra 1300-tallets Lödöse i Sverige, og bygger altså ikke på et fund fra Randers. Det er dog ikke usandsynligt, at der i et større arkæologisk materiale end de ca. 10 fragmenter af vævet uldstof, der rent faktisk er bevaret fra Randers, ville dukke en sådan type op. Stoffet er også allerede farvet. Dette er udført af Lone Olsen fra Kjellerup. Hun har farvet et stykke rød med krap og to stykker gult med regnfan, hvoraf det ene er overfarvet med jernvitriol og er blevet grønt. Endelig blev det sidste stykke stof farvet brunt med valnødder.